Seven Life Lessons I Learned Growing Up Surfing
I grew up on Central California’s Pacific coast, along the Monterey Bay. It’s an awesome place to grow up if you love the ocean, and I do.
From an early age I remember body surfing at the Asilomar with my older cousin. In those endless days, happily bobbing in the frigid Pacific waters among the sea weed and the sea lions, I learned to make the most out of every wave my beach sent me.
As I think back now, I realize those waves and that beach also taught me a good deal about making the most out of everything life sends me.
Here’s seven life lessons I learned growing up body surfing:
-
If you miss a wave, don’t worry, another will be along soon enough.
-
Sometimes you have to miss a good wave if you want to catch an even better one on the horizon.
-
It takes real work to get into position to catch the right wave and ride it to the end.
-
Some waves will thrash you pretty bad, but they are usually the most fun.
-
If you get swept out by the tide, remain calm, change direction slightly (parallel to the beach), and swim back to where you were last in good water.
-
It’s better to surf with a partner than alone.
-
Never miss a sunset if you can help it.
Share or Comment via Twitter